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The retreat's pool and thatched pavilions against green hills.

Kumarakom, Kerala · since 1998

kayal

the backwaters

Twenty-eight rooms, water on three sides, and a spa that treats slowness as the point.

  • On the lagoon

    Twelve minutes by boat from Kumarakom jetty.

  • Twenty-eight rooms

    Small enough that the staff learn your name by day two.

  • Ayurvedic spa

    Two resident physicians and a fourteen-day programme.

  • All meals included

    Three kitchens, one of them entirely vegetarian.

about us

backwaterretreat

We keep a small retreat on the Vembanad lagoonwhere teak, lime plaster and still waterdo most of the work. Our aim is not to fill rooms — but to give back a slower weekthan the one you arrived with.

The lagoon at midday, a houseboat crossing it.
The dining room, laid for the evening.

The house was a spice merchant's, built in the thirties. We restored what was standing, added twenty rooms along the water, and left the rest to the mangroves.

Everything is cooked from what the boats bring that morning, and the spa runs to the same rhythm. Nothing here is designed to be rushed.

  • 4.9/5Exceptional1,840 reviews on Booking
  • 4.8/5Excellent1,120 reviews on Tripadvisor
  • 4.9/5Excellent460 reviews on Google

Rooms and villas

Where you will actually sleep

Five kinds of room across the old house and the water's edge. Every rate includes all meals, the spa's morning session, and the boat.

From₹28,000/night

Backwater Suite

A teak-floored room that opens straight onto the lagoon.

Room size
62 m²
Bed
One king
View
Lagoon
Occupancy
2 adults · 1 child
Breakfast
Included
Smoking
Not permitted
View room
The Backwater Suite, opening onto the lagoon.Most booked
From₹34,000/night

Garden Villa

A walled garden, a plunge pool and nobody overlooking either.

Room size
78 m² + garden
Bed
One king
View
Private garden
Occupancy
2 adults · 2 children
Breakfast
Included
Smoking
Garden only
View room
The Garden Villa, dark timber and a garden door.
From₹18,500/night₹21,000

Heritage Room

The oldest wing, restored rather than replaced.

Room size
42 m²
Bed
One queen
View
Courtyard
Occupancy
2 adults
Breakfast
Included
Smoking
Not permitted
View room
A Heritage Room in the original house.Offer
From₹52,000/night

Lagoon Pavilion

Two bedrooms, a private deck, and the whole of the far shore.

Room size
110 m²
Bed
One king · one twin
View
Open lagoon
Occupancy
4 adults
Breakfast
Included
Smoking
Deck only
View room
The Lagoon Pavilion, open to the water.
From₹22,000/night

Palm Court Room

Bright, simple and the easiest room in the house to book.

Room size
48 m²
Bed
King or twin
View
Palm court
Occupancy
2 adults · 1 child
Breakfast
Included
Smoking
Not permitted
View room
A Palm Court Room, bright and simply dressed.

What is included

Everything, quietly

all inclusive

  • Stay01

    Twenty-eight rooms and villas across the heritage house and the lagoon edge, turned down each evening.

  • Dining02

    Three kitchens — Kerala coastal, a vegetarian kitchen, and one that answers to whatever the boats bring.

  • Wellness & spa03

    Ayurvedic consultation on arrival, daily treatment, and a fourteen-day panchakarma if you have the time.

  • The water04

    Kayaks, a sunset ferry to the spice jetty, and a houseboat that sleeps four if you want a night adrift.

Thatched pavilions along the water's edge.

why kayal

and not the next one

A retreat that stays relevant beyond a season

  • Twenty-eight rooms, so nothing is ever queued for.

  • Two resident Ayurvedic physicians, not a treatment menu.

  • Every meal grown, caught or landed within the district.

  • The same staff, most of them, for over a decade.

  • Built in 1998 and restored twice — never rebuilt.

On the property

Facilities and amenities

  • Ayurvedic spa

    Six treatment rooms and a steam pavilion.

  • Two pools

    One heated for the monsoon, one for the sun.

  • Three kitchens

    Coastal, vegetarian, and the day's catch.

  • Wi-Fi throughout

    Though we would rather you did not.

  • Airport transfer

    Ninety minutes from Kochi, included.

  • Nine acres

    Mangrove, spice garden and a paddy edge.

For the body

The spa

put the week down

Two resident physicians, a consultation on the day you arrive, and a treatment every day after that. Panchakarma runs to fourteen days; most people come for four and wish they had not.

An Ayurvedic oil massage in progress.
A hot-stone treatment in the spa.
The main pavilion reflected in the pool at dusk.

A short film

Three minutes on the lagoon